Paris Week: the End (for now)

Posted on February 14, 2015 by Nat

Well phew. That wraps up a week of posts dedicated to Paris, my favorite city.

I hope you enjoyed it and it helps on your next trip. Even better, I hope it inspires you to take a trip!

A Week of Paris Tips

In case you missed anything, here’s a recap from the week:

Everyone’s Paris is Different
Best Tips for Visiting Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower, and the Louvre
How to Eat Out in Paris: 11 tips
How to Ride the Paris Metro
Where to Eat the French Classics in Paris
The Best Walking Tours in Paris
Paris Champagne Tour
How to Pack Champagne Home from France
Map of My Paris Recommendations

Just the Beginning

I’m finished with this week and I already know I need more posts on Paris. There’s still so much I haven’t shared with you! Like where to sit and get champagne and ham, or my favorite place to read or fall asleep — this is important stuff, people.

Ah, Paris. There’s always a reason to go back.

In the meantime, if you have any questions about your trip to Paris, please feel free to reach out and I’m happy to answer.

Map of My Paris Places

Posted on February 14, 2015 by Nat

Did you know I am married to a geographer? And he can make really cool maps?

We worked together and put together this really cool map of my Paris recommendations. Any place that I’ve mentioned this past week is marked on the map for easy reference.

Click here to view my Paris map

I’m not done writing about Paris. Not by a long shot. As I write more, any new places I mention will be added to the map. Don’t worry if you lose this post. You’ll always be able to get to the map by scrolling to the France section of my travel page.

Bonne journée!

How to Pack Champagne Home from France

Posted on February 13, 2015 by Nat

Okay, so now that we’ve talked about visiting Champagne, how many bottles can you buy? And more importantly, how are you going to get them home?

Don’t worry, I’m here to help.

There are two issues here: how to pack it and how to get it into the country. I’ll handle each separately.

I’ll always remember very fondly the other Americans and Aussies in our group that were buying 1-2 bottles when Mr. P and I were trying to figure out the most we could possibly buy. I looked up the rules on my phone on the spot and then we became the proud new owners of 7 bottles.

The rest is history. Every time we visit Paris, we bring home a case of champagne.

How to Pack Champagne in Your Suitcase

Step one, acquire several bottles of champagne. Or just one. But I’m using myself as an example, so several. Moving on.

I’ll never forget the moment, near the end of our time visiting Jean-Claude Mouzon in Champagne, when I asked the retired champagne maker about bottles breaking in my suitcase.

He took two empty bottles, started slamming them together and said something like this: “Zher are seeex atmospheres of pressure in zhese bottles! Zhey weeel not break!”

Fair enough. In case you couldn’t tell through the French accent, his point was this: there is a ton of carbon dioxide in a bottle of champagne. There are six atmospheres of pressure (thereabouts) while it ferments, then it goes down to five when they disgorge and add the corks.

The bottles are made to handle that pressure and will probably not break in your suitcase. The lesson? Toss ’em in!

I don’t wrap the bottles at all. We space them out among our clothes in our suitcase and they do just fine.

Note: this does not apply to wine. Wine bottles are made from a different type of glass and are much more breakable. Be much more careful — we usually put wine bottles in sealed garbage bags and make sure they have plenty of padding.

No, you can’t ship champange home. That’s another post, but let’s just say that you have to get it in your suitcase if you want to get it home.

How much champagne can you bring into the u.s.?

This information only applies to Americans. I claim zero knowledge of any other nation’s customs laws.

Let’s dispel a big fat myth: Americans think they’re only allowed to bring in 1 liter of alcohol per person.

Wrong.

Let me be clear. There is no limit in the United States on how much alcohol you can bring in for personal use. Don’t believe me? Read it from the horse’s mouth.

Now, your state may have some laws that limit the amount, so do check on that. If you’re bringing in an absurd amount, you may raise some suspicions. For the sake of this post, I’m talking about bringing in 6-10 bottles between two people. No biggie, right?

Americans are allowed to bring in 1 liter of alcohol duty free. Anything above that is subject to duty, like a tax. For wine, that’s currently around $1-2 per liter.

Think about that again, at worst, that’s $2 per bottle. See what I mean? Not that bad.

So, bring your case of champagne home. A case of champagne is 6 bottles, by the way, not 12.

How to Declare your Champagne Purchase

Here’s the short answer: fill out your customs form and give the information that the form asks for. Never lie about it.

The US Customs Declaration Form does not ask for how much you are bringing in. It asks for how much it costs. Repeat that to yourself.

When I fill out my form, I list “Champagne” and a total dollar amount. Period.

Now again, there’s nothing to lie about. If a customs officer asks how many bottles you have, be honest. I’ve never ever had someone ask me that I’ve done this several times.

If they ask, tell them. The worst that happens is you are paying a handful of dollars duty. If they don’t ask, you’re done! Yay champagne!

Do not attempt to pack alcohol in your carry-on luggage — you will not get them through security if you are flying back to the US. If you buy alcohol at the duty free shop, you can carry it onto the plane, but if you have a connection to make within the US, you will have to put your duty free alcohol in your suitcase after you clear customs and before you go back through security.

One more thing . . .

Drink your champagne. It’s not going to age like a red wine. Once the champagne is disgorged, it’s really only good for a year or so. Stop looking for that special occasion and just drink it! Champagne is the little black dress — it goes with everything.

Paris Champagne Tour

Posted on February 13, 2015 by Nat

Let’s take a day trip from Paris, shall we?

Although Paris gets millions of visitors a year, only a tiny percentage of them visit Champagne, the region responsible for, you guessed it, champagne!

Why You Should Take a Champagne Tour

Mr. P and I aren’t tour people. We like to do things on our own and only ever book a tour when we know it will get us an experience we can’t get ourselves. Champagne is one of those places.

You can take the train to Champagne and visit some of the large champagne houses. It’s like going to Napa and tasting only at the big box wineries. Champagne is very insular, so if you want to go inside a mom-and-pop operation, you need to be on a tour.

If we have to take a tour, we research it like crazy so we’re not in one that screams “hi, we’re in a tour group!!!”

We Recommend Paris Champagne Tours

We booked a day trip through Paris Champagne Tours our first time in France back in 2010. It was just fabulous and went way beyond our expectations.

Since then, I’ve recommended them to friends and coworkers. No one has come back disappointed — everyone loves it!

It’s a little pricey: 175€ per person as of this writing. Trust me, it’s worth it. There are cheaper options out there but you will get a better experience with this company.

Why we Love Paris Champagne Tours

Small groups. You aren’t with a busload of people. They keep groups to 7 people max. When we went, it was Mr. P and I plus two other couples.

Pickup and drop off at your hotel. The guide will drive to your hotel and pick you up. Most of the cheaper options we researched required you to meet somewhere in Paris very early in the morning. A Champagne tour is a long day and it really helps to get door-to-door service.

Snacks in the car. Our guide had English newspapers, coffee, juice, and croissants for us during the car ride out.

Lunch is included. The price includes a multi-course lunch in Reims.

Tasting fees and tours included. All tasting fees are included plus a cave tour at one of the larger houses.

Visiting a small producer. This is the best part of the trip. You get to visit a very small champagne operation that you simply wouldn’t see if you DIY-ed it. Tasting there isn’t like wine tasting where you get a small pour. Our host opened several bottles and we drank as much as we wanted!

The best champagne you’ve ever had. The small producer we visited served us the best champagne we’ve ever tasted. Plus, it wasn’t that expensive so Mr. P and I were furiously checking customs rules to see how much we could carry home (more on that later today).

Tour of Reims Cathedral. After lunch, the guide takes you on a tour of the Reims Cathedral, where all French Kings were crowned. Outside, you can visit the statue of Joan of Arc.

Knowledgeable guides. We stopped first to look at the grapes and learn what makes the land so special for making champagne, then we visited champagne houses and learned how champagne is made. We learned a lot about World War I history — you drive by battlefields on your way to Reims.

This is not like wine tasting. And I mean that in a good way. It isn’t about driving around, jumping out to taste, and then moving onto the next place. While this totally includes champagne tasting, it’s a much bigger experience and you learn quite a lot about the industry, history, and the area.

No fee to reserve. Simply book your date and you pay by credit card at the end of the day.

If You Go

If you go, make sure to tell them I sent you! You will visit the smaller house in the morning and the larger ones after lunch. Buy all of your champagne at the smaller place in the morning — it will be an unbelievable deal! You must buy what you want there: the smaller places generally do not sell their champagne outside the property. You won’t find it back in Paris.

Click here to visit and reserve with Paris Champagne Tours

This may sound like an infomercial. I’m not getting compensated to endorse this company, I just think they’re awesome. I’ve given this recommendation so many times I finally decided to write it down. If you’re spending several days in Paris, take a day out to do a Champagne tour!

The Best Walking Tours in Paris

Posted on February 12, 2015 by Nat

If we have a bit of spare time in Paris, Mr. P and I will take a walking tour. It’s fun to get to know a new area or learn some history.

Paris Walks: I can’t recommend them enough. They’re good for first-timers or experienced travelers.

Why we Love Paris Walks

No reservations required, just show up. All walks have a set meeting point and time. Just show up, pay the guide, and you’re off! All walks are in English.

Extensive topics and schedule. Paris Walks has a huge variety of options and schedules are posted online. There’s something for everyone whether you like literature, history, food, etc. We usually pick whichever one works with our schedule and we’ve never been disappointed!

Guides are very knowledgeable and nice, but not over the top. The guides are very experienced and know a ton about the topic. You won’t find anyone who is guiding while in college to pay the bills. I describe them as “not over the top” because they’re not too gregarious or loud.

See inside private locations. On some of the tours, the guides have agreements with residents or business owners and we get to go inside places we never would have seen following a guidebook.

Generally inexpensive. It is 12€ for adults, less for students and children. Have cash ready to pay the guide.

Food and Fashion walks. They have special walks that are a bit more expensive than the normal ones. I haven’t taken one of their food walks yet, but a friend did he said it was amazing! And he didn’t need to eat dinner later that night — ha!

So, if it’s your first time or fifteenth time in Paris, Paris Walks is the way to go. You can plan your trip around their schedule, or just wake up and decide to take a tour. We love them!

Click here to visit Paris Walks

If you’re in London, the same people also run London Walks which we highly recommend too.

Where to Eat the French Classics in Paris

Posted on February 11, 2015 by Nat

Now that you have some great tips on how to eat out, let’s put it to some good use.

I prefer cafe dining in Paris. Yes, we’re big foodies, yes, there are some fabulous restaurants, and yes, we do eat at restaurants when we visit. But whiling away my time in a Parisian cafe sipping wine and eating classic dishes is my idea of heaven.

Remember my hamburger analogy, not every cafe will do these dishes well. Here are my absolute favorites.

Soupe a l’oignon – Le Comptoir des Saints-Pères

This was my first meal ever in Paris. Looking back on it, I’m so very lucky that I happened to find a cafe serving soupe a l’oignon and it happened to be done very well. More than other dishes, soupe a l’oignon can be mediocre at cafes. Finding a good one is a treasure. I’ll never leave Paris without stopping at Le Comptoir for soup.

Le Comptoir des Saints-Pères closes early (except when they do live jazz on Thursdays but we’ve never been).

Le Comptoir des Saints-Pères, 6th Arrondissement
29 Rue des Saints-Pères, 75006 Paris, France

Steak Frites – Café des Musées

This is another dish that can be mediocre if you’re not careful. I read about Café des Musées from David Lebovitz, then dragged Mr. P and our expat friend there when they were only semi-hungry. The smell of cooking steak hits you when you walk in the door. You can’t not order a steak when you smell it. Reservations are recommended, but they do have a large downstairs to handle overflow if you walk in.

Yes, I know Le Bistro Paul Bert is supposed to be the place for steak frites in Paris. Every time I try to go there, something happens and it never works out. Someday I’ll eat there and report back!

Café des Musées, 3rd Arrondissement
49 Rue de Turenne, 75003 Paris

Salade au Chevre Chaud – Le Saint-Séverin

Tucked in a lane with a ton of touristy, not-great eateries is this little gem of a cafe. Mr. P and I first found it when we needed a place to duck out of the rain. You can sit outside under the overhang, eat some excellent food, and watch throngs of people move about while you relax.

What’s a salade au chevre chaud? The best thing ever. It’s a salad with warm goat cheese. Le Saint-Séverin does theirs with an excellent vinagrette, tomatoes, two big pieces of ham, and two huge wheels of chevre. Mr. P loves it when I order it because he always gets to have some of the cheese.

Le Saint-Séverin, 5th Arrondissement
5 Rue Saint-Séverin, 75005 Paris

Omelette Mixte – Le Comptoir des Saints-PÈres

Mr. P says this is one of the better omelettes he’s ever had in Paris and always has a tough time deciding whether to get this or the soupe a l’oignon. It’s cooked perfectly, it’s buttery, and has excellent ham and cheese.

Le Comptoir des Saints-Pères, 6th Arrondissement
29 Rue des Saints-Pères, 75006 Paris, France

Crepes – Creperie Oroyona

Crepe stands are everywhere in Paris and it’s fairly easy to find a good one. Every so often, you’ll happen upon a great crepe stand. There are a ton of creperies on Rue Mouffetard, but this one is our favorite. We tried it late one night because it had the longest line. The jamon et fromage (ham and cheese) and citron sucre (lemon juice and sugar) are always what we order.

Creperie Oroyona, 5th Arrondissement
36 Rue Mouffetard, 75005 Paris

Boeuf Bourguignon – Le Nazir

Boeuf Bourguignon is not as ubiquitous on cafe menus. I was thrilled when I found it on the menu here and even more thrilled when it was excellent.

Le Nazir, 18th Arrondissement
56 Rue des Abbesses, 75018 Paris

Extra: Salads at Le Relais Gascon

I had to add this even though it’s unique and I haven’t seen salads like this elsewhere in Paris. We were looking for a casual dinner one night and stumbled upon this place. I was in the mood for chicken, but everyone was eating salads out of these huge earthenware bowls. We got with the program and each ordered one. There are a variety of salads on the menu, but they all come topped with potatoes. So so so very good.

Le Relais Gascon, 18th Arrondissement
6 Rue des Abbesses, 75018 Paris

You won’t find Salade Niçoise on the list. We don’t like olives, so there. I’m still on the hunt for a good sole meuniere so I can pretend that I’m Julia Child having her first meal in France.

Do you have a favorite place to eat in Paris? Please share!

How to Ride the Paris Metro

Posted on February 10, 2015 by Nat

I love me some public transportation. I swoon over good public transportation. Maybe it’s because I live in a major metropolitan area with a sub-adequate system.

The Metro is the best way to get around Paris. I’m also a fan of the bus and walking but that’s another post.

To my American readers who may not ride public transportation that often: yes, you can figure this out, it’s fairly easy, and it’s wonderful. Public transportation isn’t scary and thousands of people ride the Metro every day.

This post covers travel within Paris on the Metro. This does not cover the RER, which is the regional train system that also serves Versailles and the airports, or the national and international train services.

Buying Tickets

Ah, France: where everything is slightly more difficult than it needs to be. In other major world cities, we can buy the same rechargeable subway card that commuters use. Not possible in Paris.

Short version: it’s quicker, easier, and usually more cost-effective to buy packs of individual tickets instead of a pass.

We buy packs of t+ tickets, which are good for Zone 1. Zone 1 will get you pretty much anywhere you need to go in Paris. T+ tickets will not go to the airport or Versailles, but you can buy a single ticket for those zones if you need them.

A single t+ ticket costs 1.80€ and is good for a single ride on the Metro (or bus!). If you buy a book of 10 tickets for 14.10€, the cost per ride is 1.41€.

Buying a Book of Tickets: A book of 10 is called a carnet (“car-nay”). You can buy a carnet at automatic ticket machines, tourist information stands (including the TI at the airports), and at most tabac stands. People at TI’s speak English but if you go to a Metro ticket window or tabac and say carnet, they’ll know exactly what you want.

I love the carnet because you only buy what you need and you can split it between people if you aren’t taking that many rides.

You can buy a carnet at ticket machines but use cash. Most Americans have credit/debit cards that will not work in ticket machines in Europe. Learn more about using credit and debit cards abroad here.

There are two pass-type options that I don’t like:

The Navigo Découverte is a week pass for 24.40€ plus a 5€ fee. The kicker is that the week runs Monday-Sunday. If you don’t buy it on the right day of the week, it isn’t cost-effective.

The Paris Visite is a pass you can get for 1, 2, 3, or 5 consecutive days. A 1-day adult pass costs 12.30€. You would need to take 9 trips in that day for it to be more cost-effective than single tickets.

Planning Your Route

Look at the Metro map. Print this map or pick one up at a station.

Each Metro line has a color and number. Find the station closest to you and where you want to go. Pay attention to the color and number of the line, plus the name of the terminus station in the direction you are going. This is important: you will find your train platform by knowing the name of the last station at the end of the line where your train is going.

Example: If you are traveling on Line 1 (yellow) from Bastille to the Louvre, you want a Line 1 train going toward La Défense.

If you need to transfer, look for the white circles where the train lines intersect. You’ll need to know what direction your first train is going, plus what direction your second train is going so you can find the transfer signs in the station.

If you are in a busy part of Paris, odds are there are multiple stops within a few blocks of you. If you need to make a transfer, consider whether it’s better to start your trip a couple blocks further than the closest stop if it means a shorter ride or fewer transfers.

Taking a Ride

Many Metro stations have multiple entrances. Get yourself to the general area and you’ll see signs. They vary wildly and I love taking pictures of them.

Be Prepared for Stairs: Lots of them. In bigger stations they may have escalators, but most don’t. You’ll hop up and down multiple short and long flights of stairs to find your platform. Pro tip: if you Metro to Abbesses station, there is an elevator from the platform to the fare gates. It’s there for a reason — don’t take those stairs or you’re in for some serious exercise (it’s the deepest station in the Metro).

Riding the Metro is just like navigating an airport: just look up and follow the signs. In some stations, you’ll pass through the fare gates and then find your train. Some stations are huge and have multiple sets of fare gates. Just look for signs. You will see the color and number of your train plus the name of the terminus station.

Using the Fare Gates: stick your t+ ticket in the little slot, printed side up. It’ll pop up from another slot. Pull it out and pass through the gate. Keep the ticket — a fare inspector on the train may ask to see it (it’s only happened to me once).

Don’t Mix Used and New Tickets: A used ticket will have a date printed on the back from the fare gate. It’s often really hard to see these. Keep used tickets in a different pocket. After I use my ticket, I give it a little tear so I know.

On the Platform: This is why the Metro is awesome. Unlike other cities, each direction for each line has its own platform. When you get to your platform, you don’t have to worry about whether the next train is your train. It is. All the hard work is done!

Using the Train Doors: Most of the Metro trains have doors that will not open automatically: they have to be opened with a lever or button. This goes for entering or exiting a train. Older trains have a lever (shown below). Just lift the lever and the doors will pop open.

Getting off at Your Stop: All train cars will have a map of the line. Some of the newer cars have maps that light up showing the next stops, some just have a sticker. Find the map and pay attention to the stops. All transfer stations are clearly marked with the color and number.

Transferring or Exiting: Step off the train onto the platform and look for signs. If you are transferring, look for a sign with the color, number, and terminus of your new line and repeat the process again. If you are exiting, look for the blue and white sortie signs. Exits are numbered. If you are in a big station, look for a map outside the fare gates to show you which exit will get you closest to your destination.

Happy Metro-ing! If you need help, leave a comment and I’m happy to answer questions.

It’s a two post day today, scroll down!

MORE IN THIS SERIES:

Everyone’s Paris is Different
Best Tips for Visiting Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower, and the Louvre
How to Eat Out in Paris: 11 tips

Click here to view all of my travel posts.

How to Eat out in Paris: 11 tips

Posted on February 10, 2015 by Nat

Eating is my favorite thing to do in Paris. Mr. P and I usually have a first and second breakfast most days we’re there.

Here are my tips for eating out in Paris. It’s a long list but eating out in Paris isn’t hard. With the info below, you’ll feel a little more comfortable and look a teensy bit like a local!

Parisian food is more than just crepes and onion soup. Paris is an international city with a cutting edge food scene. You aren’t going to find crepes in every restaurant just like you won’t find a burger in every restaurant in the US. Paris also has fantastic ethnic food. But there’s nothing wrong with seeking out the classics. I love eating the classics and I don’t care if it’s blasé.

Eating at Cafes. The cafe culture is huge in Paris (it’s even nurtured by the government). A cafe is different than a restaurant. Cafes are where you will find the classics like steak frites, omelettes, and onion soup. Most cafes serve their entire menu all day, so any time you are feeling like tucking in for soup a l’oignon, go for it!

Carte = menu, Menu = pre fixe. The “carte” is what you would consider a menu. If you see “menu” listed and a series of dishes underneath, it means a set pre fixe menu. A menu can be a good deal so consider it!

Not all dishes will be awesome. I’ve had some mind-blowing soup a l’oignon and I’ve had some terrible ones. Just because a cafe has a classic dish on the menu doesn’t mean it will be amazing, even if it’s Paris. Think about it this way: hamburgers are a ubiquitous American food. How often have you had a mediocre hamburger or fries? The same goes is Paris.

Wine in all sizes, all the time. The French have a steady wine intake, so why not be a local? A glass with lunch or in the afternoon is very normal. On most cafe menus, you’ll see wines offered by the glass (“verre”), a small carafe, a small pitcher (“pichet”), or a bottle (“bouteille”). Wine is measured in centiliters or cL. A bottle of wine is 75cL.

You have to ask for water. They will not bring it by default. If you’d like some basic tap water to go with your meal, just ask for “un pichet de l’eau” or “une carafe de l’eau.”

Ordering. Say “je voudrais la/le . . .” and try to pronounce what you want and point to it. If you forget that, just say what you want, point to it, and say “s’il vous plaît” (please). Even if you butcher the French, attempt to pronounce it. The waiter will probably repeat it back to you in English, but your attempt will be appreciated.

The servers will leave you alone. Once the server takes and brings your order, you will be left alone. No one is going to come see you mid-chew and ask you if you like your meal. On the one hand, it can be difficult to get a waiter’s attention to ask for a refill on your wine. On the other hand, you are left to enjoy yourself and can park at a table, especially at a cafe, for as long as you like.

Don’t yell “garçon” at the waiter. It’s rude and you’ll look like a loud American who’s seen Pulp Fiction. When you need something, just make eye contact with the server, smile, maybe raise a hand, and say “s’il vous plaît.”

You have to ask for the check. See above. Just make eye contact with the server and say “l’addition s’il vous plaît.”

Make sure to have cash. Credit is widely accepted, but not everywhere. It’s not uncommon to see a cash-only cafe. Don’t expect market or street food vendors to have Square. Trust me, they don’t.

Now, you may be thinking: damn, those are a lot of rules. You don’t have to remember everything. But just like visiting any country with a different culture, it’s polite to attempt the social norms. Even though it’s chock full of tourists, Paris is no exception.

Anything I missed? Feel free to share your tips below!

MORE IN THIS SERIES:

Everyone’s Paris is Different
Best Tips for Visiting Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower, and the Louvre
How to Ride the Paris Metro

Click here to view all of my travel posts.

How to Visit the Louvre, Eiffel Tower, and Notre Dame in Paris

Posted on February 9, 2015 by Nat

Today I’m sharing my tips for how to visit the three most popular sites in Paris.

I’ve found that guide books tend to leave out crucial tidbits. This can make the difference between a wonderful and a letdown experience.

Best Tips for Visiting Notre Dame

There are two parts here: visiting inside the cathedral and climbing to the top of the towers. I’ve never been inside the crypt, feel free to comment below if you have.

Visiting inside the cathedral is free and easy. Check here for hours.

If you are facing the front of Notre Dame, enter the right-most door. Don’t be afraid of the line. It usually moves pretty quickly since it’s free and there isn’t a checkpoint.

I love going inside. It’s so beautiful and peaceful. Visitors are allowed in during services. We’ve been inside on Good Friday and Easter — just make sure to use the visitor’s line so worshipers are free to use their entrance.

Visiting the tower is another story and takes some strategy. Get there early!!

Line up right when the tower opens. If you don’t, you risk waiting in line for hours to get to the top. Trust me, I’ve done the hours-wait twice (don’t ask).

Click here for a map of the entrance and where you should line up. The guidebooks will say that they let groups of people (usually 10ish) into the tower every 10 minutes. Looking at the line, you may do the math and think it won’t take very long.

They only let people up if there’s room. There’s a certain capacity in the tower. If people on top linger for a long time, the guards will not shoo them down so other people can visit. This creates a domino effect causing the line to take forever.

I think it’s worth going up at least once for the view (and some cool gargoyles).

Best Tips for Visiting the Eiffel Tower

If it’s your first time in Paris, take the metro to Trocadéro station. It’s the perfect view for first-timers. There’s nothing quite like turning the corner coming out of the station and just seeing it. It’s also the perfect spot for photos. Then you can stroll up to the tower.

To go inside the tower, buy your tickets online in advance. Even if you show up when it opens, there will be obscene lines. Don’t do it. Buy your tickets early. Even though there are entrances and elevators in all four “feet” of the tower, I’ve only ever seen them operate two at once. This contributes to the lines if you don’t have a ticket.

If you buy your ticket online, you get a separate line. Think Disneyland fast pass. Arrive a few minutes ahead of time and look for the sign that says “with tickets” (avec billets). If you are planning on walking from Trocadéro, get there about 45 minutes from your ticket time. It will give you plenty of time to stroll, take pictures, and get to the entrance.

There are 3 levels to the tower. If you want to go to the very top (le sommet), and you should, stop reading this and buy your tickets now. Now!

Tickets to le sommet sell out quickly — Parisian tour companies buy them up in batches and make it hard for individual travelers to get them. It’s really annoying. As soon as you know the dates of your trip, get online and buy tickets.

If you have a ticket for le sommet, you will have to wait in a line with everyone else on the second level for the elevator (it’s a separate elevator). The top is totally worth it.

There is a champagne bar at the very top. Yes, it’s a bit to pay for a little glass (10€ at this writing). But it’s champagne on the top of the Eiffel Tower. Stop asking questions and just do it.

Bonus: time your visit for sunset. After sunset on the hour every hour, the tower lights up with thousands of twinkling lights for five minutes. They were installed to celebrate the year 2000 but have become permanent. Read more about them here.

Best Tips for Visiting the Louvre

By now, you understand that Mr. P and I hate lines. We detest lines.

The Louvre is huge. It’s amazing. And it gets crowded.

Get the Paris Museum Pass and you can skip the line.

If you have the Museum Pass, you get a separate, much shorter security line and no need to wait to buy tickets. Read the pass carefully — sometimes the special entrance is close to the official entrance, sometimes it’s in another wing. Regular visitors have to line up to get through security and then buy their tickets inside.

There’s more art than I can possibly mention here, so make sure to get a map when you get inside.

If you want to visit the Mona Lisa, I recommend getting to the Louvre when it opens and power walking straight to her.

I have mixed feelings on this. It feels a bit uncouth to race other visitors. On the other hand, she’s a popular lady. If you want to have a peaceful moment with her, you have to get there first.

The Mona Lisa, La Jaconde in French, is in the Denon wing. Look at the map when you get it, but there will be huge signs pointing the way.

You’ll pass Winged Victory on your way, which is also fabulous to see without the crowds.

Entering the Denon wing, you’ll turn into a huge hallway that goes on forever with paintings on either side. Walk down it and look to your right. There will be two entrances to Salle 6, one right after the other. You’ll see her.

The Eiffel Tower is larger and more impressive than imagination. The Mona Lisa is much much smaller than imagination, but no less impressive. For me, it’s worth it to see her up close with just a few people.

Give it 30 minutes, and Salle 6 will be filled.

When you’re done, make a 180-degree turn and see The Wedding Feast at Cana on the opposite wall. It’s a huge painting and a bit overwhelming after staring at the small Mona Lisa. From there, you can stroll and enjoy the rest of your visit.

Any other tips? If you’ve visited before and want to add to these tips, I’d love to hear your comments!

MORE IN THIS SERIES:

Everyone’s Paris is Different
How to Eat Out in Paris: 11 tips
How to Ride the Paris Metro

Click here to view all of my travel posts.

My Paris, Your Paris

Posted on February 8, 2015 by Nat

Welcome to Paris Week on the blog!!

Every traveler has a different experience with a city. Nowhere is this more true than Paris. Everyone’s Paris is just a bit different.

I think it’s the nature of the city. Paris. It draws you in, lifts you up, and carries you away. At least that’s what it does for me. Paris is my first and best travel love.

Everyone will tell you that “you have to do this,” “you have to see that.” Paris is many many things. It’s history, nightlife, shopping, fashion, design, and art. For us, our Paris is about the food. Lots of it. Oh and wine.

Our Paris is about slowing down and relaxing in a familiar place, discovering new gems, visiting favorite places, eating as much as we can stand, and watching the world pass by. That’s the Paris I’m excited to share with you this week.

Every month this year, I’ll be featuring either a location or a theme on travel. Paris is not only my favorite city, but it was my first trip outside the US. We’ve been many times since then and I can’t think of a better place to start my week of posts.

I’m excited! As always, Paris, je t’aime.